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UNCOVERING THE NAVIGLI POETESS
Exploring the lyrical side of the city
The famous Italian poet Alda Merini (1931-2009) had a magnetic charisma, and her beautiful verses propelled her into the literary scene of the late 20th century, transforming her painful experiences in the mental asylum of her youth into boundless creative energy. Merini called Milano her home, and her deep connection to the Navigli neighborhood binds her figure to the city forever. As you walk along the neighborhood streets and canals, we invite you to plunge into the rich literary legacy Alda Merini left behind.
The Navigli are a charming reminder of Milano’s past and a must-visit destination for both tourists and locals looking for picturesque and mesmerizing corners of the city. Our journey begins at Vicolo dei Lavandai, the place lost in time that stirred Merini’s imagination and pushed her to write her famous poem “Lavandaie” (Laundresses).
Next, we trace Alda Merini’s footsteps along Ripa di Porta Ticinese, where she resided for most of her life in an apartment that has been dismantled. After her passing, the city honored her memory by naming a bridge on the Naviglio Grande (the major canal) after her. From there, you can enjoy a very romantic view of the canals at sunset.
In 1954, the charming Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie al Naviglio witnessed Alda Merini’s wedding to Ettore Carniti, the owner of some local bakeries. Today, the promenade along the canal banks near the church is the perfect spot for antiquity and vintage enthusiasts thanks to the many shops and boutiques. Here, every last Sunday of the month, the promenade comes alive the Mercatone dell’Antiquariato flea and antiques market.
When Alda Merini’s apartment was dismantled following her passing, her bedroom furniture found a new home in Spazio Alda Merini, a museum dedicated to preserving her memory. Here, her room and creative space, complete with original plaster pieces famous for the phone numbers she wrote in lipstick are faithfully recreated.
Free visits: Thursdays to Sundays, 16:00–19:30 (last entry at 18:30).
Visite in Versi (Visits in Verse): guided tours with poetic performance upon reservation.
Our poetic journey comes to an end at il Libraccio inVia Corsico, Alda Merini’s favorite neighborhood bookshop. A vintage photograph on the entry wall captures the poet herself stepping into the store, a reminder of her enduring presence in the neighborhood and the literary heritage she left as legacy to the city. While you are on Naviglio Grande, make sure you visit the specialty shops and ateliers along the canal and enjoy the nightlife in the countless bars along its banks.
Initiative created thanks to the resources of the Development and Cohesion Plan of the Italian Ministry of Tourism "Piano di Sviluppo e Coesione del Ministero del Turismo"
